Which one to go for? Bespoke or made-to-measure!
Bespoke suit has become a buzz word in
the suit industry. It is a term used a lot these days but only few understand
it’s true meaning. They often tend to confuse with Made to measure suits. So
today to clear all the doubts I am here to explain what is the actual
difference between Bespoke suit and
Made-to-measure suits.
The term Bespoke means “to speak for” and
here it means that the suit’s requirements are literally “spoken by” the
customers according to his/her specific requirements. They are custom tailored suits. It is a one of a
kind design that’s hand drawn and crafted based upon exact specifications of
the wearer’s body. The design is not owned by anybody else other than you and
is a craft straight out of your vision!
You feel royal and a sense of confidence
as soon as you adorn this unique creation.
On the other hand a made to measure suit
is a more generalized form. An initial fitting is taken, then the suit is
created and then final fitting is taken. Here made to measure suit will be
ordered, existing patterns will be modified and then different patterns
assembled. The final suit will of course depend upon the mastery of tailor and
how specific the customer has been while giving an order. Some choices of
fabrics will be there but not so many as in the case of Bespoke suits!
Now
let’s look at some differences
Pattern Design
MTM:- Here modification of base pattern
is done. Suppose there is size 42 suit. The MTM Company will take the pattern, modify
it according to your size and then hand you the final suit. All MTM companies
manufacture made-to-measure suits in standard sizes which is 5-7 sizes. The
master tailor will modify the pattern according to your shape like arm length
and shoulder width!
Bespoke suit:- Here first your size is
measured the specific suit pattern is decided and then the suit is manufactured
from scratch! Not only measurements are taken but other specific details like
arch of the back, slope of the shoulder is also taken into account.
Fitting Decision
MTM:- Generally no fitting during creation
process is taken. When you select a suit your fitting is taken into
consideration, then suit is modified and then you get the final product which
fits you and if not another measurement is taken!
Bespoke suit:- The fitting is taken
during the creation process and not just one but multiple fittings! First is
the base skeleton fitting, second is the forward fitting, third is the fin bar
fin fitting and they all are taken during different stages of tailoring!Here’s
where you can say that Bespoke suit is a more premium form than MTM!
Fabric Selection
MTM:- The no. of mills offered is usually
1 to 2.And not fabric but mills! Some shops however offer more options than
that but most of them offer max two mills!
Bespoke:- They offer a wider number of
mills usually 8-10.It’s actually called “library”
Of fabrics here. You get a large number
of choices and some of them are high end ones!
Customization Options
MTM:- Usually few options are available. You
can talk to your tailor for choices of no of buttons on jacket, vent style, pleats,
types of cuffs, etc. But customizations are limited in made to measure suits
since they do not want to ruin the base pattern of the suits.
Bespoke:- They are at a big advantage
here since they are built from scratch and customer can order any pattern, design,
cuffs, lapels,etc. The tailor does not have to worry about destroying the
integrity of any pre-set pattern.
Cost Difference
MTM suits are quite affordable as they do
not consume much effort and time. They usually cost around 500$-1000$.
The Bespoke suits cost more since they
use multiple fittings, labor hours and most of all because they are handmade!
Ultimately it’s your choice which suit
will you go for depending on your budget and requirement. Whether you need it
for a party or office wear, or marriage ceremony. I will only say have all the
information before making any decision so that you don’t regret after!
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